1. 303 Jungle Carbine Parts

I have been after a No5 for some time now. I’m not sure if it was due to its rather usual shape and profile, or its reputation of being a rifle that lets you know you’ve fired it. The No5 is certainly unique and a break from the traditional style and shape of the earlier No1’s, the No3 or that of the later No4’s.The No5 was intended to be lighter in weight, have a reduction in overall lenght,and to be far more compact rifle. When compared to that of its cousin, the No4, it certainly met that criteria.

The No5 was also a rifle well suited to the jungle environment. Its action and ability to work in trying conditions was well documented and the reduction in weight a blessing to the soldier carrying the carbine.

The No5 whilst being produced 1945 did see use in WWII, even being issued to paratrooper units.But it was this attempt to reduce the weight of the rifle that may have inevitably lead to its questionable reliability. This mainly centered around the inability of the rifle to hold its zero. Or the famous “Wandering Zero”.As a result, the No5 in fact saw the shortest length of service for a British service rifle. This may be in part due to the wandering zero, but may also be attributed to the focus on the newer and prevailing self-loading rifles and semi automatic firearms of the time.A while back I was fortunate enough to stumble onto what was to be my first No5. Whilst a little on the scratched side and missing the odd piece, she still remained very appealing. I emailed the owner whom I knew and trusted and simply asked “is it worthwhile a restoration job?”.“Definitely!” was the reply.I received a few pictures and the only real issue was the flash hider had been removed. There were a few scratchs around where the forward barrel band had been and the top wood was missing.So here are a few photos after a day of tinkering with the woods alone. Very faint but there!The numbers on the Mag, Bolt and Receiver all matched, but what really topped it of was that the woodwork did as well. I noticed this upon closer inspection, I could tell that there was some numbering as seen in the left photo that showed something.

I lightly worked on it till I could see a clearer defined set of markings. This is as far as I will go for now. This is also why you never use sand paper, it’s going to take time for the wood to accept the “magic solution” and to be honest im not going to push my luck any further in fear of lightening the surrounding woods and just fading it all into the back ground.As you can see the butt just soaked it up and the resulting colour that has come back is just wonderful. The scratching around the front barrel band will take a bit longer, but that will just be accomplished over time with lighter and lighter solutions. But again gently gently. Today all I did was clean up the bore a tad and just let the wood accept the oils.

The bottom picture shows todays results. With restoration you just need to remember its a slow process but worth it. It may sound odd but its sort of handy to have a couple of projects on the go, that way you don’t rush any one job.So now I need to source the correct barrel band and flash hider.Now here’s a trick for new players. Some companies out there have made “conversion” kits for the NO4’s to resemble a No5, these entailed a new butt, modified top and bottom woods, again normally from excess no4 stocks. But they had to make the flash hider to fit the No4 barrel, which has a different size muzzle where the hider was attached. Hi, great website, nice Enfields. I have a faz No5 which I purchased many years ago.

Ian, thank you for the kind words regarding the website.To be exactly sure of what you have got could you email me some pictures? I am interested in the serial number as a FTR in 47 would have indicated that the rifle was made prior to that date and then back to the factory for its 2nd time? If you flick me serial numbers I can work out production dates.Again, I profess to be no expert but here goes my interpretation of what you have described.To me what you describe is a sporterised No5.

My knowledge of the materials, the methods employed coupled with the accurising techniques of the day lead me to believe that your rifle has been “sporterised or modernised” well after its Factory Through Repair in the Fazakerly factory in 1947. Titanium putty is certainly omitted from any of the stocking up process’s that I’ve ever seen from that period in time! The removal of bayonet lugs, the addition of a cheek pad and a scope, again I would tend to agree with the second person who looked at the rifle. Then there is also the lack of official nomenclature to such a creation!There are plenty of examples of post WWII rifles that were tinkered with and sold as something a little more interesting that what they really were. But what you have is still very special, and I do want some more pictures!Ian, my advice would be let’s have a look at it and if it’s just a case of retro fitting a flash hider let’s do that!

But I temper anything that we may do as I wouldn’t want to ruin an accurate rifle, especially a No5! PLUS it has a history of its own!But yes the No 5 was issued to paratroopers as was the sten gun, Brens and No4’s, I will update the site with some images that show the British 1 Airborne in Norway with the No5.I hope this helps in some small way. But again send me some pictures. Hi Mark,Firstly you are most welcome, job well done. On the second, no tradional serial # only the electric engraved #, in full it reads No5 MK1 (f)1/47 Y9933It was the second gun I ever purchased, and so I have owned it for 20+ years, I will shoot some pic’s very soon and upload them. I don’t mind what the gun is, I love it, and wouldn’t part with it. No one can believe it shoots so well, as long as you space the shots and don’t heat up the barrel to much, it’s around the 1″ at a 100yds, no access to more at the present.

Thanks for your response.Regards Ian. Ian,What a great second rifle to own! It took me a while to get one!The serial prefix that you have (Y XXXX) runs from the end of 1946 into the beginning of 1947. Yours looks to be at the end of the Y series, I am unable to tell the month but the follow prefix numbers series are observed for the 1947 production at the Fazakerly factory Y, Z, AA, AB, and AC.BSA Shirley used a double prefix starting with ‘B” 1945 BB, BD, BE, BF, BG 1946 BH and BJ 1947 BKI dont think your rifle went through an FTR program, have a good look around the other stencilling, can yoy see “FTR” anywhere?Hell any Enfield that gets 1 inch at 100 yrds is a keeper!

Dont mess with it, infact get it out and shoot some more! You could get a repro flash hider, but ensure you get the correct diameter and get a good gunsmith familiar with Enfields to do it.personal experience, dont try it yourself! But in all honesty I would just get the old girl out and have fun!Mark. Does anyone know if the no.5 mk1 was ever used as a sniper rifle?

I’m about to buy one with all correct numbers, parts, etc., really good looking piece of history. On the left side of the receiver are two holes that appear to be drilled for a side mount scope. They don’t interfere with the electro lettering. I hate to think someone did this to the lady to mount a scope that didn’t belong.

Serial number is Z72xx which should be a 1947 rifle from Fazakerley but I haven’t found any info that might indicate that any were drilled for scopes. I am in posession of a “butchered” or “bubbaed up’ Mk1 No.5 Jungle carbine. Tell me about a sad casei will spare you’all the gruesome details but the burning question in my mind is, what held the flash hider on? There are no grooves on the barrel to accomodate the two cross pins that usually retained the FH The barrel measures 18 3/4 inches long using the BATFE method ( cleaning rod down the barrel stopping on closed bolt) When compared to my hopefully original JC, supposdly an Israeli issue (no broad arrow property marks purchased in the 1970’s from Navy Arms) the barel seems to be long enough to enter the flashhider recess sufficiently. Barrel diameter at muzzle is about.585 for about 1 1/4 inches then gets larger past that. The four lightening cuts on the knox form (chamber) look original and uniform.

Barrel markings: a crown over BNP, 2.222 18.5 TONS PER The markings on what remains of the receiver left side consists of No5MKlROF(F) 12/45 T4XXX Also ENGLAND and the broad arrow on the left of the butt socket. Sorry to be so long winded – old guys are like that: ) Mahalo, Mel Chung. Mel, sorry for the delay in replying. It sounds as if the barrel has something odd about her, esp if there are no groves or holes for the pins in the barrel to accommodate the flasher hider. I will get one of mine out later and have a measure up?

But by the sounds of it you have already measured against another one you own?? Flick me some photos of the end and lets have a good look. Sounds rather interesting! But you are right there should be two visible holes that allowed the two pins that held the FH in place. Mel, Can you take images of the markings on the knox area for me as well? And dont be shy of bubba’d rifles, here is a great opportunity to get the old girl back to her former glory, which isnt too hard!

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Have an idea about the barrel but need to run it past my Enfield Guru 🙂. Mark: sorry no pictures available. The markngs in the knox form area are not clear and consist of seemingly random letters and symbols such as: a D with an arc over it, stacked NN and 66 under a odd Omega like symbol, a mark that with some imaginaton looks like a stylized woodpecker and a couple of other indecipherable marks. All these marks are on the flat on top of the knox form.

In the lightening cut at the 2 O’clock position there appears to be a crown over a N?. Part of a broad arrow mark just ahead of the flat on the knox form.Unfortunately the receiver is not salvageable, mainly due to the cutting off of the rear sight axis pin “ears” and the removal of the charges guide “bridge”. A shame since the receiver has the new to me lightening cut at the butt socket beteen holes for the rear trigger guard screw and it also has the lightening cuts to the area below the rear sight. The ejector screw hole has been buggeed with an oversized sheet metal screw. The gun has been restocked ith a cut down # 4 foreend and a #4 butt stock with non brass buttplate. Did I mention that the electro pencil markings are shallow, faint and irregular – Perhaps an off day for the person doing the marking.

Maybe in the past someone took a perectly good JC, kept the action parts, butchered the receiver and restocked or went through an awful lot of time and trouble to duplicate a JC receiver and barrel. These strange and sad things happen sometimes Mel. I’m in Long Island NY and nobody has any real info on the rifle I just picked up from a friend. I was helping him out installing a new toilet & vanity for his home that was badly damaged in Super Storm Sandy, when I was about to leave he offered me “A Jungle Rifle” and said I have the stones to rebuild & fire it as its loud & shoulder buster. No idea what he’s talking about so I said sure “I’ll take it”. I can see it was sported at some time in its life and want to bring her back to as issued as possible.

I just want to confirm its a real #5 and not a wantabee #4 as I’ve been reading. Pictures inbound.Thanks Karl. Hello Karl,I am on Long Island as well. I bought my 2nd Mk5 earlier this Fall. It has such history and excellent report when fired. The ammo is expensive but you can’t shoot it too often in one visit to the range without paying the price anyway so it will help you save money that way.

Good Luck — great story by the way about how you aquired this nice piece of history. There are original parts around on various websites so you should be able to bring this back close to the way it was when issued.Best Regards,Keith.

303 Jungle Carbine Parts

Remember that “butchered” jungle carbine i got a few months ago with the sights removed, the sight mounting “ears” ground off and the stripper clip guide center filed out? Since the receiver was already permanently altered, I did the following: milled a flat on the receiver where the sight ears used to be, made a plug for the rear sight plunger and spring hole, made a set screw to hold it in, drilled and tapped the plug and the receiver for 3 holes, installed a home made sub base onto the receiver, altered a piece of b square base stock to fit the subbase, drilled and tapped the base and the receiver ring, milled slots onto the base after determining where the scope rings would go, installed a used burris 3-9×40 scope on to the base and collimated it. I replaced the severely altered #4 fore end and resined #4 buttstock with an already altered #4 stock and butt i picked up at a gun show for 20$, a CHROME PLATED jungle carbine buttstock pad bracket with aftermarket rubber pad replica.

I ordered the reworked hand guard, handguard ring, stamped band and ejector from GPC. No band screws in stock so i will try and use a butt swivel screw instead. I must have put in about 20 to 30 hours of machine time and lots of handwork into this gun, The receiver, bolt, trigger guard and barrel are original. A replica flashhider with bayonet lug won’t fit since the barrel muzzle diameter is about.010 undersize. Already i got someone wanting to trade AR parts for my frankenstrein jcbut I would prefer a complete gun for it such as a rusty M1 Garand used to prop the barn door open with.: ) Mel Chung. If you meant to say a Mk1#5 with a Mk1 #4 barrel, if the headspace is OK with gages, then it should be OK. A little out of proportion and muzzle heavy but if you don’t mind it should work well.

Suggest maybe a slip on recoil pad since the butt is short and relatively stiff recoil. There are aftermarket scope mounts that bolt on using existing holes.

Please don’t drill holes in the receiver. If it were my gun I would get a conversion kit for the barrel and install a repro flashhider, and use the gun with the slip on pad.